Domaine Jean Féry & Fils
Viticulteurs en Bourgogne
2009: it has all the signs of greatness!
The 2009 vintage, as related by Pascal Marchand, master vine-grower and winemaker
The harvest began on 10th September and spread over 4 days; very rapidly, as all parcels had reached maturity and harvesters had turned up in numbers. The weather was magnificent and it was a real moment of pleasure. The grapes were superb. It was really a lovely crop, even ideal: analyses of must showed perfect balance, with a rare conjunction between physiological maturity (grape ripeness) and phenolic maturity (that of the solid parts of the grapes, like skins, pips and stems). This perfect balance is exceptional and a clear indicator that the vintage is potentially excellent. This allowed me even more to renew what I had attempted in 2008 with certain cuvees: vinification in whole bunches (with their stems). The phenolic components of the stems change the dynamics of fermentation and produce finer wines. No risk of having “green” or herbaceous tastes if the stems have well-ripened tannins, as was the case. Vinification, with such a harvest, was carried out quite classically (cold macerations, early punching-down to well extract the grapes’ organoleptic qualities…). The proportion of whole bunches varied according to the crus: 20 to 30% for most, 50% for some, like our Vosne-Romanée. And even 100% for the Corton, the Vougeot 1er Cru “Les Cras” and the Nuits-Saint-Georges “Les Damodes” that were also aged in 100% new oak: they have enough temperament for it! Otherwise, the proportion of new oak varied, as every year, as a function of each wine: each has its own personality that must be adapted to. It is not my style that guides the wines, but the style of the wines that guides my choices!